Antigua

I liked Antigua. It's an interesting city. Originally slated to be the capital of Guatemala, it was established as the main city with all the expected buildings and twenty years in an earthquake struck and levelled the place to the ground. So they rebuilt. Some time later, another earthquake, more rebuilding.

Two hundred years and a lot of devistaing earthquakes later, they decided building a capital between three volcanos was probably not the best planning decision and they shifted it to a new location and declared the old location closed. But people being people, not everyone left and so the remains of the city linger on.

Because of the earthquakes no buildings can be over two stories high, plus now it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site so if new buildings are built, they have to be built in kind with the existing ones. Most buildings have conservation orders on them, so they can't be knocked down. So places like McDonalds and Burger King are in lovely old buildings with a tiny plaque on the outside with their name. No garish neon lights.

The thing I loved about it is the history. The place is literally oozing history. The streets are cobbles and the place it littered with old buildings, but they're in completely different states of repair. This one might be fully restored, that one could be a shell with a modern building inside it and over there, that one could just be a wall and nothing else.

At one point I was staring at a wall and realised I was actually looking at the inside wall of a church, except the rest of it has long since gone. I just found that sort of thing amazing.

Antigua was also the site of my first ride in a chicken bus. Some of us caught one out to a the Valhalla Macadamia Research Station where we saw how they're promoting macadamias over clearfelling the jungle. An interesting trip.

We also climbed up Pacaya, a volcano about an hour out of town. I think that was the most physically demanding thing I did on the trip. A seven kilometre round trip going about one kilometer vertical before coming back down. That's a one in three gradient and once you start walking it does not let up. That was the killer for me, just a flat section to catch your breath, but nope.

Also, on the wya up you're being followed by a guy on a horse going "Taxi? Long way to top... not even half way yet." I was tempted. Really tempted. I probably would have paid up and got the horse, if one of the other guys hadn't beaten me to it.

Reaching the top is worth the hike though. You come out in a desolate expanse. Not quite a lava field, more like a debris field scattered with lava tubes. There is no where where you can actively see lava, but quite a few places where you can feel the heat coming out of the earth. We were walking on rocks that didn't exist four years ago and we went through a patch which was only two years old. No wonder there are big signs warning you volcanos are unpredictable. We did not go all the way to the top, that's considered too dangerous, but it was still pretty memorable.

Antigua also marked the end of one trip and the beginning of another. Four of us were continuing through, so one evening we said goodbye to those folk and the following day picked up the new crew before starting to head east.


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This is Hermano Pedro's Hospital and church in Antigua
6:49am 27th March 2012
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Arch of Santa Catalina, Antigua
7:17am 27th March 2012
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San Francisco Church in Antigua
9:15am 27th March 2012
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Mathijs, Imelda and Sophie in Antigua
9:58am 27th March 2012
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Chicken sandwich with salsa... bliss
10:23am 27th March 2012
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Imelda
10:23am 27th March 2012
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Everyone tucking in to dinner in Antigua
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Evidence of a good night out
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Hermano Pedro's Hospital at night
11:41am 27th March 2012
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Front gates of the Convent of Santa Clara, inside is ruins
12:55pm 27th March 2012
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Public clothes washing fountain outside Convent of Santa Clara, Antigua
12:43am 28th March 2012
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The road workers get decent hammers in Antigua
12:45am 28th March 2012
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A former church in Antigua
2:26am 28th March 2012
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Another chicken bus, alas, not the one we got
3:00am 28th March 2012
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The Valhalla Macadamia Research Station had a swing
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It worked really well too
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Apparently one of the best toilets around, also at Valhalla Macadamia Research Station
4:20am 28th March 2012
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This was our bus back to Antigua. Cosy.
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One of the ruined buildings in Antigua, I love the octagonal windows
5:21am 28th March 2012
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Christopher
9:58am 28th March 2012
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Alex pointing out that Mathijs is de man!
11:25am 28th March 2012
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Farewell dinner in Antigua with everyone
11:27am 28th March 2012
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Just the facade of what had to have been a church remains
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The fountain in Parque Central (central park)
11:37am 28th March 2012
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Main cathedral in Antigua
11:38am 28th March 2012
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Walking up Pacaya, this was when I was still feeling humid
10:02pm 28th March 2012
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Volcan de Agua with Volcan de Fuego in the background
10:09pm 28th March 2012
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Another of the two volcanos, they are very close to the town
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Trees growing on the side of Pacaya volcano we were walking up
10:41pm 28th March 2012
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Climbing up Pacaya volcano
10:52pm 28th March 2012
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The top of Pacaya
10:58pm 28th March 2012
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Mathijs, Saara, me and Sophie on top of Pacaya
11:00pm 28th March 2012
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This dog followed us all the way up
11:01pm 28th March 2012
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Saara getting steamed
11:16pm 28th March 2012
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Mind the hole! (It's hot and steamy inside)
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The group looking out towards the other volcanos
11:23pm 28th March 2012
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White moth on black rock... not the best camouflage
11:23pm 28th March 2012
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Agua, Fuego with Acatenango volcanos just visiable (Fuego was letting out smoke)
11:25pm 28th March 2012
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Sliding down one of the outcrops
11:27pm 28th March 2012
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Toasting marshmellows over vents in the volcano
11:31pm 28th March 2012
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Sophie bracing for a jump
11:46pm 28th March 2012
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Yeap, me and volcanos
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Saara has fine form
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Mathijs jumping off rocks
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We made him do it twice
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I am still impressed Saara got this high
11:53pm 28th March 2012
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Sophie gets airborn
11:55pm 28th March 2012
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And again
11:56pm 28th March 2012
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Our guide leaping off the edge
11:56pm 28th March 2012
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I wasn't as graceful as everyone else
11:57pm 28th March 2012
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The sides of Pacaya volcano (with people)
11:58pm 28th March 2012
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Heading down Pacaya
12:02am 29th March 2012
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This is walking back down again (A lot easier than walking up)
12:04am 29th March 2012
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With the other volcanos in the background
12:10am 29th March 2012
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Heading down, this area is about 2-4 years old
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A tree slowly being strangled by vines
12:14am 29th March 2012
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Some sort of white berries, probably hideously toxic, I don't know
12:16am 29th March 2012
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Its a white flower
12:20am 29th March 2012
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Mathijs and Saara
12:25am 29th March 2012
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This is a power plant using the geothermal energy from the volcanos
12:34am 29th March 2012
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Saara, Mathijs, Sophie and James on the rooftop bar in Antigua
8:28am 29th March 2012
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Saara, Mathijs, Sophie and James still on the roof
8:46am 29th March 2012
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Last modified: May 27 2012 04:08:30.
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